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Originally Posted by ShiftyZ
The way it is going, I will be using it to go back and forth from work really fast to pay for it
The way it is going, I will be using it to go back and forth from work really fast to pay for it
Haha
Dayum, why so expensive? My answer assumed it would be about $1,000 max total, parts & labor.
For $2190, personally I'd do like Enes said - finish thigns up, get the car back, do it next year.
Check out this price on that clutch.. I didn't know what exactly that clutch was.. so did a quick Google check and these guys popped up under a sponsored link(you'll have to scroll down to find your car pricing):
http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/872
But either way, thats pretty cheap for a twin carbon disc clutch. My RPS twin carbon carbon was much more then that.
The clutch I ended going with is more than the $2190 ATS twin carbon I had in mind. The Exedy Dcore Twin Carbon has a retail of over $4000 - though, nobody pays retail
I very well could have went with a spec 3+, JWT HD, or an ACT for under a grand, but I don't want to regret cutting corners with this latest venture.
i am going to look into that. that is a significant discount to what I have been seeing it listed for. That place is overseas and usually services Europe and Oz. I am still going to inquire about them. Even with international overnight shipping, I bet it I still save a few hundred bucks. Look at some of their pricing on other things. Less than half of what we see here in the US
Last edited by Zivman; 10-12-2006 at 07:53 PM.
I guess you'll be changing your sig soon.
"Once you go Asian, you never go Caucasian."
Peliminary dynos I was sent at 14 psi. This is after a tuning session. Numbers are slightly higher on a fresh run - don't think the fans are keeping the temps down
...wow, nice curves
its true..studies have shown that whining on the internet takes less time than actually taking care of the problem...and taking care of the problem means you don't get anymore sympathy...mommy didn't hug you enough and daddy hit you...you crave the negative attention. or your a drama whore?!
they do look pretty good considering stock heads and cams.
that just beautiful!!!
Damn that thing is going to be a monster
We are still waiting on the clutch. final tune will be 15-15.5 lbs of boost, so a bit more power. I think on a fresh run, it will pull nearly 550 on that dyno -
How much does that thing weigh?
Yeah, there comes a point to where if you make much more power, your going to have to start replacing expensive things. Pretty much thats where i'm at right now also. Weaksauce.
Car looks awesome!
Good judgement is gained from experience, experience is gained from bad judgement.
12.54 @ 113, 1.995 60' (285 555 ZR's) '99 GT SOLD
I think the car weighs about 3300-3400 lbs with me in it
Aaron, can you up the boost on race gas? Is your fuel system getting close to maxed or it just the for the safety of the block?
Shane, I could run multiple boost levels with the boost controller, but the EMS does not allow me to easily switch maps. The Fcon Vpro is locked up tight without the access key, which only an HKS pro dealer has. This really seems to be the only drawback to the HKS Fcon Vpro. That said, I am not looking for insane amount of power, and preffer the convience of one tune and being able to run just 92 octane pump gasl
With this tune, my fuel system is nowhere near being maxed out. When I was up at your shop, I was running the out of box fuel system, and running it at it's limit at that time. I upgraded to the APS extreme fuel system for this latest tune. This fuel system is recommened for 600-1000 bhp. I am barely at 600 bhp.
GRD also found what they think is the reason for my lower than normal boost and AFRs on your dyno. They found a small tear in a vacuum line that was causing intermediate boost and AFR issues. Tuan was having issues getting it to consistantly pull the same boost and AFRs during the tune, and tracked it down to a small tear in a vacuum line near the BOV.
For me to go much higher than this, I will need to get the APS big (3" dual) exhaust, which after riding in GRD's shop car, I don't want anything to do with it. On top of that, you can see a slight taper in the power near redline, that is a result of the stock cams. I would need to upgrade cams, and maybe a slight port and polish on the heads to really see 550+. Just not really worth it as 500 whp is plenty of power for this car and driver.
I am still trying to decide on a clutch right now. I don't know if I should spend the big money on the twin carbon or just get a single faced Spec or ACT for 1/3 the price. The twin carbon should last longer and be more streetable, but damn near 3K for a clutch is hard to justify considering my complete motor build was about that much.
Twin disc clutches are often noisy, which could be problem if you are concerned about noise. You could try some other setup, if the clutch is pretty cheap. We always go away with more power than the ACT 2600s were rated for even with AWD not spinning the tires on the DSMs. But the ACT clutches in their catalog aren't rated all that high for the 350Z. Were you looking at a Stage 3+ or Stage 5 spec? Maybe that Stage 3+ might hold and not be hell to drive. One upside to a twin disc besides power handling is that they don't require much pedal effort.
That sucks about the FCon VPRO. It would be a very popular system if HKS didn't only let the tuning side of it out to places that move a lot of their product. For people who don't have laptops and run the AEM EMS, there are way to have other maps activated by a toggle switch. Worst case he should just be able to tune the higher boost areas of the map for race gas only and the dialy boost areas for pump gas.
The Fcon is making up A LOT of ground lately with the Z33 crowd, and I will guess it will be making up a lot of ground in the subie market as well. HKS pro dealers are popping up across the country lately in the Z33 arena. Forged performance, GRD, and GTM have pro deal status, and long time Z shop SGP racing in TX has been a HKS pro dealer for some time.Twin disc clutches are often noisy, which could be problem if you are concerned about noise. You could try some other setup, if the clutch is pretty cheap. We always go away with more power than the ACT 2600s were rated for even with AWD not spinning the tires on the DSMs. But the ACT clutches in their catalog aren't rated all that high for the 350Z. Were you looking at a Stage 3+ or Stage 5 spec? Maybe that Stage 3+ might hold and not be hell to drive. One upside to a twin disc besides power handling is that they don't require much pedal effort.
The twin carbon Exedy I am looking at has a modified core to reduce noise. It is the D-Core series and acording to GRD, will give me mad street credit with its JDM roots. The spec I would get is the 3+ rated at 660 tq (flywheel) which should be enough. Basically it comes down to longevity. Tuan at GRD says the exedy will last 2-3 times as long as a single face like the Spec 3+, and be much more streetable. If it lasts 3 X as long, I have no problem spending the money, but there is no way to really know until it goes out. hind sight is always 20-20. Any advise would be appreciated. My mechanic friend advised me to throw in the cheaper clutch because I don't drive the car that many miles, but when given the chance, I drive it as much as I can. I don't want to waste an opportunity to drive it having to throw in a second or third clutch.
That sucks about the FCon VPRO. It would be a very popular system if HKS didn't only let the tuning side of it out to places that move a lot of their product. For people who don't have laptops and run the AEM EMS, there are way to have other maps activated by a toggle switch. Worst case he should just be able to tune the higher boost areas of the map for race gas only and the dialy boost areas for pump gas.
The other available EMS setups are lacking. The greddy emanage fries coils and is inconsistent, the utec lacks resolution, has poor interface, and has a rep for being buggy, the classic unichip lacks injector scalability, though the new unichip Q looks promising if you have a tuner nearby. The Fcon is the real deal with great resolution, and a TON of control. But with a price tag of over 3K bucks with all the sensors and limited access to tuners, it isn't perfect.
For my situation, Tuan was going to tune just as you stated and have me adjust the boost levels via the HKS EVC5 boost controller. Really though, I don't need any more power than I can make on pump gas, so there is really no to go for it. I like being able to just pull up to a station and fill with 92 rather than having to switch maps and fill with racegas.
It's too bad we Z owners don't have a nice solution like Tom and his protege. for a litle over a grand, the microtch unit seems to great for his car. I am not all that versed in the unit, but Tom's car runs great for a complete standalone. Good power, easy startup, good idle, what more can you ask for. I was impressed with the tune on it, nice job
The FCon seems to be the one system that can handle drive-by-wire cars well. I have seen hacks done on other cars using the stock ECU in tandem with a standalone or the drive-by-wire replaced with a different throttle body and a cable run, but they often don't end up being very clean setups and dash is often lit with all kinds of error lights.
man... That car only gets better and better.
can i ask something....what the hell do you do for a living and how old are you?? I'm 19 and in college so right now i'm just drooling over this car. I have to work my ass off right now to be able to build my GSR the way i want.
I am creeping up on my 28th birthday. A lot will change in 10 yrs, and most of it will be for the better, at least financially.
I worked forTarget for a few yrs after college as a business analyst and after a long complicated chain of events, I am now an unemployed farmer
The farm your running isn't exactly a hobby farm either
Just another run of the mill Stock Ford Focus....
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